From the archive
Nordic Breads’ Finnish Ruis
There’s more to rye bread than what you get at Carnegie Deli. Take, for instance, this Nordic newcomer. It’s a dark, dense, whole-grain triumph, flat as a Frisbee and with a distinctive tang that gains in complexity the more you chew. It is a bread of substance, of depth, and (as the packaging asserts) of such high fiber you can practically feel your constitution improve as you munch away. Concocted from organic New York State rye meal and a sourdough starter baker Simo Kuusisto smuggled in from Finland, the Ruis has expanded its retail presence from a New Amsterdam Market kiosk to Whole Foods shelves.