Kinchley's Tavern (Ramsey, New Jersey, est. 1937)

Our blunt but friendly waitress first recommended the house specialty, a Fra Diavolo pie. This 14” wide bubbling beauty had a roughly 1� to 1 cheese:sauce ratio that, to my usual taste, would have been overwhelmingly heavy were it not for the healthy dose of crust bubbles breaking up the surface.

The piquant and spicy kick in the onion-flecked tomato sauce makes this pie an absolute winner. The heat cuts through the grease of the low-moisture mozzarella but doesn’t overwhelm the senses. The almost imperceptible onion flavor works perfectly well with the sweet spaghetti sauce flavor.