Tacos Matamoros
Bulk, not refinement, is the forte.
During a post-lunch market crawl, a sometimes chef from Mexico observed that the guajillo and ancho peppers in his shopping basket had been absent from our meal at Matamoros. The restaurant, he maintained, had relied almost exclusively on chiles de arbol, which are comparatively vinegary and bitter. But the distinction (which eluded my own tastebuds at the table) didn’t diminish our group meal or a previous, even larger chowdown.
Shown: nachos strewn with chorizo (above); tacos al pastor; tacos de lengua; huaraches; tostadas de ceviche; a goat tamale; a platter of barbacoa cabrito, slow-cooked baby goat (which might be available only on weekends or by special order); costillas en adobo rojo; camarones al mojo de ajo; pollo a la Mexicana; flan.
Tacos Matamoros
45-08 Fifth Ave. (45th-46th Sts.), Sunset Park, Brooklyn
718-871-7627
