The preposterous story of Max Factor, inventor of modern makeup

Ink traps became almost expressionistic in the late 1970s

Given early lipsticks’ tendency to seep into the corners of the mouth, Max Factor drew “rosebud” lips, a style of application that accentuates the two upper points and leaves the outer corners bare. When he mastered a formula for lipstick with more staying power, he elongated the shape to create “cupid’s bow” lips, made famous by Clara Bow, and created Joan Crawford’s distinctive look after the invention of lip liner, which made it possible for women to draw their lips in whatever shape they pleased. In the late 1920s, film sets switched from carbon arc lights to incandescents, which were more diffuse and less bright. The hazy quality of this light lent itself to a more ethereal aesthetic; ever responsive, Factor dyed his clients blonde, invented lip gloss, and sprinkled gold dust in Marlene Dietrich’s coif.